Saturday, April 30, 2011

Best Internet Booking Agent

In this economy, you have to work smarter, NOT HARDER! That is why if you are a solo artist, a band or DJ, this is going to help you get more gigs and more work without all that running around town acting like a crazy person.
What I am talking about is the Internets Best Online Booking agent – GigMasters. www.Gigmasters.com
When I first started out as a Wedding DJ, I was maybe getting 1 wedding Reception every couple months. However all that changed the minute I joined GigMasters. Not only did I start getting a lot of inquiries about my availability, I was getting work – at least 2 Weddings Receptions every weekend. In fact after 6 months, I had to turn down work because I was already booked 6 months ahead. Now isn’t that any performers dream?
Look at all you get for your membership:
A GigMasters membership gives you everything you'll ever need to get seen, get considered, and get booked for private parties, weddings, corporate events, and more! Here's what you'll get:
§  Proprietary Booking System
§  Flexible Travel Radius
§  Unlimited Bookings
§  Validated Client Feedback
§  Online Contracts (optional)
§  Performer Control Panel
§  Editable Online Press Kit
§  Top Search Engine Rankings
§  500,000 Unique Monthly Visitors
§  25 Photo Slideshow
§  Audio/Video Hosting
§  Gig Calendar
§  Multiple Category Listings
§  Daily Search Statistics
§  Nationwide Exposure
§  Secured Deposit Processing (optional)
§  Performer Message Boards
§  Monthly Newsletter
§  Live Customer Support
§  30-Day Money Back Guarantee
§  ...And more!
They have 3 Membership packages:
Basic:
*       100-Mile Travel Radius
*       6 Categories and Genres
*       25 MB of Audio/Video Storage Space on their server
*       3 Months is $59
*       6 Months is $109
*       12 Months is $179
*      
Professional:
*       500-Mile Travel Radius
*       12 Categories and Genres
*       50 MB of Audio/Video Storage Space on their server
*       3 Months is $79
*       6 Months is $139
*       12 Months is $219

Gold:
*       3000-Mile Travel Radius
*       18 Categories and Genres
*       100 MB of Audio/Video Storage Space on their server
*       3 Months is $99
*       6 Months is $169
*       12 Months is $249

I just used the Basic Package as I just worked here in town, never traveled, plus I didn’t require all that storage space. I went from just doing Wedding Receptions to doing Big Corporate Events, because of GigMasters I was working and making money. Instead of me having to make up a press kit for every club I wanted to approach, I just directed them to My GigMasters Online Bio and Press Kit. Wow it saved me a lot of time and work and got me a lot of work. Plus any gigs I did get on my own, heir calendar will let you add that in so people can see your availability dates.GigMasters do charge a 5 percent fee for booking you – now to get more work; I paid that for my clients that were trying to hire me. Doing that, I got more work than my competition that made the client pay it.
I highly recommend you sign up with them today, your bank account will thank you – plus other performers will ask why you are working so much more than they are.  
Until totorrow,
Rory
http://www.thenextsoundyouhear.com/

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Recording has Sure Changed

Boy recording has sure changed; years ago I would use a 16 channel mixer – sending the output to an analog 4 track audio cassette record deck. Then I upgraded to an Alesis ADAT, 8 digital channels – man with that I did some cool overdubbing and produced several of my published songs.
Then 2 years ago, still using my 16 Channel Behringer mixer, I would mix bands live in my home studio, then sending the stereo output to my Dell laptop into Sound Forge Studio. From Sound Forge I would edit, and mix down the wav files to import into Nero to burn a nice demo Audio CD.
Granted, it worked, but I wasn’t seeing the BIG PICTURE – I wasn’t working smart and I sure wasn’t harnessing the true power of this digital technology – the Digital Audio Workstation, or DAW.
So I purchased Pro Tools 8 M-Powered, and for my Audio Interface, I purchased M-Audio’s Fast Track Ultra 8R. (A nice 8 Channel interface)
I have to say I have heard Pro Tools has a steep learning curve, but I decided not to let that bother me and dove right in. Watching tutorials on YouTube helped a bunch and in no time I was up and recording with Pro Tools – wow, I should have been doing this years ago. Pro tools is very powerful, and at the same time, it is very user friendly – very customizable, if you need a stereo 2 track mix, or a full 48 track for a movie score, Pro Tools does it all and more. Add in all the virtual instruments and hundreds of plug-ins and now you can record, mix-down and master professional audio equal to any professional recording studio.
I feel the Monkee’s song says it best, “Now I’m a Believer!” So take the plunge, give your music the professional edge it requires with Pro Tools, your music and career will thank you.
Until tomorrow,
Rory

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Studio Ergonomics

I have talked about mics, micing techniques and all sorts of musician related information. However, I forgot to talk about your studio, after all it is a huge part of you as a musician.

I have spent a lot of time in professional recording studios, and if you look around, their studio is designed and built for:
           
      ·        Sound Absorption
      ·        Ergonomics
      ·        Comfort

Comfortable Chair

Ask yourself, have you ever seen a Sound Engineer sitting in a $15 folding chair from Wal-Mart? No you haven’t, I know firsthand from spending time in a Control Room, Engineers have really comfortable, sleek design chairs. Why? Because they spend hours upon hours in those chairs mixing. Try doing that on a cheap chair, believe me, your back and butt will be aching for days. So I have looked around and found a couple ready comfy leather chairs at Office Depot and Amazon.com – between $167 - $200 dollars. 

This really is an important piece of your recording studio furniture. The main thing is that it’s comfortable of course. You will get tired after many hours in your studio mixing and recording, but be sure that the chair is not to blame. Having an ergonomic chair would be the best thing. You NEED a chair that lets your body rest in a natural position while you work. Another important thing to make sure of is that it doesn't squeak. That might just kill your most important recording.

A sturdy, comfortable (preferably ergonomic) non-squeaky chair would be a good way of taking care of yourself during the countless hours in your recording studio. I recommend you make a wise investment and buy yourself a really comfortable chair – then you won’t mind sitting for hours doing something you really love, without your back or butt hurting.

 Workstation

I have setup numerous Home Recording Studios and I know that just starting out, you are on a budget. But I have to tell you, there are certain things you CAN NOT skimp on, and your Workstation is one of these.  
I have seen many musicians use a $40 dollar table they bought from Wal-Mart. Then they cram everything on this 5 foot table, their Music keyboard, their computer and Monitor – along with keyboard and mouse. Then they have their mixer along with an Equalizer’s and the like sitting on a neighboring desk or end table. They don’t get that it isn’t in the least bit practical or even ergonomic – and forget about any creative work flow.
So let me straighten up this confused mess and chaos into a very creative, practical and yes Feng Shui like ergonomic workplace. How do you ask??? Easy, but spending about $450 and buying a very cool, practical, ergonomic workstation – The Raxxess ACD-42-56B Large Angled Center Desk.  
Note: The ACD-42-56B is shown here with optional RB-60B Rack Bridge and optional KBS-2B Keyboard Tray. (See Recommended Accessories Below)

A wide range of components allows a system to be configured to suit any room size and shape. These features make the Config-U-Raxx system just as comfortable for the MIDI composer as it is for the audio engineer.

The Config-U-Raxx line consists of an array of desktop surfaces, side wings and shelves, as well as add-ons such as doors and keyboard trays. Each component can be easily interfaced with any other component in the system, allowing for an almost endless variety of configurations to fit any of your music needs. Future expansion of the system will be just as easy. This furniture is designed to provide years of trouble-free service and rock-solid performance. I love this Workstation because it is so flexible, you can put your music keyboard to the desk level, put your monitors speakers and Computer Flat Panel on the upper shelve – while putting your computer keyboard underneath in the keyboard pullout drawer. On top of one of the side wings you could put your 16 channel mixer, while below keeping your computer tower. The possibilities are endless, whatever configuration that you require – you can create it – making your studio, practical, ergonomic, so those creative juices can flow.

Features:
·         Large, angled center desk.
·         Color: Ebony
·         Dimensions: 56.5" (at back), 42" (at front) x 30"
·         Model number is for center desk only.

Recommended Accessories:

§  Upper Shelve - $149
§  USB Keyboard Drawer - $149.
§  Left or Right Side Wings - $229 each side
Check out any Professional Studio’s Control room, you will see it is laid out very methodically, practical, making the Engineers live a whole lot easier.
 Until tomorrow,
Rory

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Labeling your Mixer

Labeling your Mixer

Last week I just about had a heart attack and died when I watch a musician put masking tape on his Brand new Yamaha mixer to label the channels. As a seasoned sound guy, I set him straight – for which he was eternally grateful. But it got me wondering, how many other musicians and sound guys really don’t have a clue??? Yes, I had better enlighten them.
So here’s the thing:
When I first started out as a sound guy, yes I was using the old nasty grey Duck tape to identify and label each of my channels. Each time, I pulled the tape, I pulled paint off the mixer as well as leaving some gummy glue. Masking tape was NO better, still the same problem.
Then I saw an ad in Recording Magazine for a package of Mag-Tags (56 Printed & 40 Blank 1" x ½" White Magnetic Mixer Labels - $25) great idea so I bought them – only one big drawback…none of the soundboards I used or mixed with were metal, so these magnet labels wouldn’t stick.
Then I met a Key Grip from a movie set who introduced me to a really cool product – Gaffer Tape. Now it looks like Duck tape, but the cool thing is when you pull it up to remove it, wow, like magic, NO Glue or sticky residue is ever left. So for the next 5 years, I was using Gaffer tape (now it comes it a lot of cool colors beside dull grey). Anyhow this professional Audio Engineer told me what he uses out in L.A. on the big movie soundboards - White Artist Tape, as it leaves no residue and he writes on it with a Black Sharpie pen. Hey I learned a very important rule years ago, when a very successful person tells you something – LISTEN, because they are trying to mentor you.
So I took his advice to heart, the next day went to Michaels and bought me some White Artist Tape 1 inch wide by 60 yards long for $8.00.  OMG, in the dark or dim light, the black Sharpie pen against the White Artist Tape can be seen very well. So now, that is what I use here in the studio and out live. So save your mixers, let them enjoy a healthy long life by using Artist Tape.
 until tomorrow,
Rory

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Record Great Brass Sounds in your Home Studio

So you are faced with the task of recording a trumpet player, a trombone player, or maybe even an entire brass section for you demo? This task is easier than one thinks and can produce amazing results for your project. First of all the good news - horn sections, trombones, trumpets and saxophones are loud! You don’t have to be worried about cars going by, people walking upstairs, explosions, kids screaming and bathroom flushing noises. They will all disappear in the mix.

Remember that a brass instrument's sound comes from the vibration of its bell, which unlike woodwind instruments (such as sax, flute, oboe, and bassoon), where the sound comes from the keyholes and the bell (or from the “foot” in the case of a flute). Notice that I didn't say the sound comes from the end of the bell, but rather from the vibration of the bell. That is an important distinction. The bell is so important to the character of the sound that a player buying a professional, custom-made brass instrument will usually be given a choice of bell material and shapes, which imbue the horn with a variety of sonic characteristics. (I refer to this as Tonal Color – as different material AND different shaped Bells have unique tone qualities. Believe me, as a sound guy – there is a difference.)
A brass instrument's sound is affected greatly by the room in which it's played. One of the most important considerations when placing a mic to record a brass instrument is how much room sound you will capture. If you close-mic the bell, you'll miss out on much of the room reflections, which, in a good-sounding space, can add character and openness to the sound. A small room will tend to sound boxy and will call for closer miking.

Every room is different, so it helps to experiment with mic placement. Before you set up any mics, have the musician move around until you find the spot where the horn sounds best in the room. Then set up the mic, put on your headphones, and move the mic around until you find the most favorable placement. You'll get different reflections depending on the mic's position, and they can have a big impact on the sound. If you want a completely different sound, record the player with his or her back to the mic, or better still have him stand on his head. Acoustically speaking, a small cramped home studio is really not a good place for brass recording, because of the boxy sound. It's preferable to record in a large space that has hard surfaces to take advantage of the natural ambience. To record Brass, I put them all in my big living room, where it is very spacious, the room is NOT treated acoustically and believe it or not – I ALWAYS get awesome sounding Brass on all my recordings. I run my 50 Foot snake from my Studio way in back of the house, clear out to the Living Room to record them. Now on this last session, I had 2 Trumpet players, 3 Sax players.  

Micing the Horns

Placing the microphones is critical in defining the final sound of the recording. I would suggest putting the microphone 1-2 feet from the bell, to give it a "bigger than life" sound. For Trumpets and Trombones, where one is looking for a more realistic sound you need to place the microphone about 4 to 8 feet away. This produces a very nature, beautiful full rounded tone.  And being yes an anal sound guy, I always, always run 2 condenser mics way above as my overheads. Remember harmonics, reflections give your nice ambient sound quality.

Types of Microphones

Trumpets: I prefer dynamic mics for trumpets. They are robust enough to withstand the high SPL, typically have a slightly rounded or warmer high end that complements the brash tone of the horn’s upper register (while attenuating excessive spit sounds), and their proximity effect can be used for added punch. My favorite trumpet mics include the Sennheiser MD421 and of course Shure SM7 (The Shure SM58 works great too).
Trombone: Everything I said about the trumpet goes for the trombone also. With a range that extends slightly more than an octave below the trumpet, you’ll want to choose mics that can do justice to that bottom end and set the high pass filter at 80 Hz. The Electro-Voice RE20 and Sennheiser MD421 are again my first choice for trombones, and ribbon mics will usually provide excellent results as well. Try your favorite kick drum mic here; you’ll get a great sound.
Sax: I find that a well-balanced sonic portrait of the entire sax’s range is usually attained by positioning the mic 12 to 18 inches away from the horn, aimed at a point equidistant between the end of the bell and the player’s left hand. This captures an acoustic blend of the resonant barking bell tones with the more airy upper register (coming primarily off the smaller tone holes) in their natural proportions. I’ve achieved excellent results recording saxophones with all types of mics, though large-diaphragm mics seem to complement the instrument best. You can’t go wrong with a Sennheiser MD421, and frankly some of my most cherished sax sounds were recorded with a Shure SM58.
Clarinet: The standard Bb clarinet is mercifully a much more voluptuous sounding instrument than the soprano sax, so I use a Large Diaphragm Mic, condensers in fact I prefer them here for their ability to capture subtle detail. Again, the Neumann U87 is recommended (actually, off the top of my head I can’t think of an instrument where that sentence wouldn’t hold true!), as is the RĂ˜DE NT1, and I’ve also been pleased with the Sony C-37 (another large-diaphragm condenser) and the Beyer M160 (a ribbon mic). The bass clarinet sounds an octave lower than the standard clarinet, and is considerably larger with a sax-like upturned bell. Many times I find it sufficient to mic the bass clarinet the way I do the alto, tenor, or baritone Saxes, with the mic pointed in between the end of the bell and the player’s left hand.
Flute: Unlike the saxes and clarinets, the “bell” of the flute is effectively non-existent, both in terms of its physical construction (hint: there isn’t one) and how that end of the instrument affects the timbre. Rather, it’s the business end of a flute, the mouthpiece, which contributes far more musical information, including upper harmonics, noise spectra, and mouth sounds.
The objective is to capture the mouthpiece sounds in proportion to the output from the tone holes. I use three different approaches to miking the flute, depending on the context and the sound I’m after.
For the most natural sound I point a cardioid condenser straight down over the top of the flute about 18 inches above the midpoint of the instrument. This allows for an acoustic blending of mouthpiece and tone holes, and seems most effective for classical music, solo flute pieces, or anytime when leakage from other instruments isn’t a factor.
For a more assertive sound, to cut through a dense rhythm section or a rock chart (think Jethro Tull), I’ll close-mic the mouthpiece with a dynamic microphone. Stage-oriented vocal mics work well here, as you’ll need something impervious to breath turbulence. The Shure SM58 is an obvious choice; I’m particularly fond of the Audio-Technica ATM41, which has a more substantial pop/breath filter, a tighter pattern, and a bit more of a rising peak in the 2–3 kHz region.
Sennheiser 421s and 441s work well in this application, though they usually require an external foam breath filter. (You’ll want to crank up the high pass filter to about 250 Hz.)

To Double or Not

Achieving a full and realistic brass sound can be particularly challenging in a home studio, however I find you can build a fuller sound by having the musicians double their parts, and then use both recordings in the mix, panned to either side. For an even thicker sound, record the parts a third time and use that pass in the center of the mix, although the change won't be as dramatic as going from a single part to a doubled part. (Now what I did was yes, I had the musicians play their parts a second time so I could get a fuller sound. Later I brought in a Trombone player had him add a couple extra tracks to give the horn section just a bit more sound. The finished demo was quite impressive)
A good rule of thumb: Usually Brass is tripled when there are 1-2 musicians and doubled when there are 3 people. Also try to keep the highest part and lowest part closest to the center of the track. When doubling keep track of what part goes where, so for instance if you have 4 trumpet parts and 2 players remember to put part 1-2 on track 1-2 and 3-4 on 3-4 otherwise you will have a nightmare at the mix with inconsistent sound coming from all over the place.
When considering doubling orchestration becomes an issue here are common groups vs. orchestration and doubling:
·         Single musician: Mostly doubling is done, for unisons, solos and perhaps chords
·         2 horns (usually trumpet+sax or trumpet+trombone): Best sound is with doubling or tripling the parts. This allows for 4-6 part harmony
·         3 horns - trumpet+trombone+sax: Double - do not triple when using this configuration. allows for 6 part harmony at 2/3rds of the time, can sound tighter than the 2 horn configuration, but not always. Can cover more songs at a time, so it may be cost effective if studio time is expensive.
·         3 horns - 1 trumpet+1 trombone or trumpet+trombone+sax: Like the 2 trumpets+ 1 trombone configuration just with more sound possibilites, you can cover more songs at a time, so it may be cost effective if studio time is expensive. You can also avoid doubling and add brass synth instead.
·         4 horns - 2 trumpets, 2 trombones or 2trumpets+trombone+sax: Double it to get 8 part harmony and bright unisons, although many prefer the 3 horn configuration. Doubling might sound a little on the heavy side, but nothing that canat be repaired with eq
·         5 horns - 3 trumpets, 2 trombones: Do not double a 5 part harmony when saxes are added on seperately. This is beneficial for extremely fast recording times, and is probably very cost effective if you use it in a project with a lot of brass, or when several projects are consolidated into one project.
Well I know it’s a lot to absorb, but I promise in the end, your Recording will sound great and people will comment with oohs and aahs on your horn section.
Until Tomorrow,
Rory

Monday, April 11, 2011

What is a Reflexion Filter?

What is a Reflexion Filter?
The Reflexion Filter is basically a portable device for recording live sound sources with reduced room ambience. It is an advanced composite wall which is positioned behind any microphone by means of a variable position stand clamp assembly which ships with the product. The main function is to help obtain a ‘dry’ vocal or instrument recording. This is especially useful in studios without proper acoustic treatment, but can also be used to help record takes in control rooms, where the performer also has to operate the recording device, or in rehearsal studios to reduce ambient noise. Reflexion Filters are used a lot in Home Studio Recording, when they don’t have an appropriate vocal booth.
The Easy, Portable Way to Make Recordings Sound Better!
What a simple way to improve the sound of your acoustic space! Not everyone has the budget or the space to work in a perfectly "tuned" and treated acoustic space. But that doesn't mean you can't sound great. Believe it or not, sE Electronics' Reflexion Filter does an amazing job of making your mic sound better, because its six different layers diffuse the sound waves around the mic. Better yet, it mounts to any mic stand — you can take this portable acoustic treatment into other rooms or to other locations! The Reflexion Filter costs a fraction of a full-room treatment, and it does an outstanding job. If you record, you'll want this on your favorite mic! You can but a Reflexion Filter for about $299.
**I've never used one, but I have heard great things about them from musicians and engineers. Seeing I don't have any space for a vocal booth, I'm seriously considering buying me one.

Until tomorrow,
Rory

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Converting your Closet into a Vocal Booth

Converting your Closet into a Vocal Booth
Things you will need:
  • Box fan
  • Soundproofing foam blocks (Auralex has a 32 piece kit for $99)
  • Utility knife
  • Spray adhesive
  • Hammer
  • Nails
  • Sound blankets
  • Hard soundproofing foam (You get buy at Lowes)
  • Scrap carpet
  • Carpet tacks
  • Drill
  • Microphone stand
  • XLR cable
  • Small table
A vocal booth is essential for recording clean signals for singing or other vocal work. The soundproofing deadens echo and gives you the signal in perfect isolation. However, renting a studio can be expensive or inconvenient. Fortunately, assembling a vocal booth at home is a simple process that can be done by anyone, even people who are uncomfortable with home remodeling. With a little patience, you can build a vocal booth ideal for music or voiceover recording.

1)      Empty the closet completely, removing the shelves and clothes rod. Place the box fan in the door facing out at the highest setting to vent fumes. Spray an X and a circle around it on the flat side of a soundproofing block with the spray adhesive, and then spray an X on the ceiling. Press the Xs firmly together and hold for a few seconds. Take your hand away and ensure the block has bonded to the ceiling.
2)      Tile the ceiling, walls, and inside door with the foam blocks. Place each block so that the triangles on it are at right angles to each other to break up reflections. Cut the blocks to fit with the utility knife as necessary. Leave 1 inch above the floor clear on the walls. On the door, drill a 1-inch wide hole and tile around it, leaving as little room as possible near the hole.
3)      Cut the hard soundproofing foam to fit the floor, leaving room for the door to close firmly shut. Nail it to the floor with the carpet tacks, and lay the scrap carpet over it. Nail the sound blanket to the top of the door frame to serve as a curtain.
4)      Place the microphone stand on the floor, and drape one end of the cable on the stand's clip. Place the small table next to the closet door, and feed the cable through to it. Shut the door firmly and test your booth to ensure the isolation is as clean as possible.
Well there you have it. The other alternative is using a Reflection Filter, which I will talk about in my next post.
Rory
http://www.thenextsoundyouhear.com/